By sea kayak around the Capes of Skåne
Cape Horn, Cape Farewell, Cape Agulhas. There are many well-known "Capes." They often have evocative names and convey a sense of adventure and experience. The word cape comes from the Latin "caput," meaning headland. Salt-sprayed, wind-beaten, and remote, they have for generations exerted an almost fearful allure on sailors, whether traveling on fast clipper ships from Australia to Europe or in modern-day round-the-world sailing boats. Nowadays, one can relatively easily visit these places and form one's own impression. But why go across the river for water, or rather, a Cape?
Sweden's Cape Horn
Our very own "Cape Horn" is in Skåne! The real Cape Horn lies at latitude 56 degrees south. Kullaberg in northwestern Skåne lies at 56 degrees north and is heavily exposed to weather and wind. It obviously cannot match the wildness of the real Cape Horn. But Kullaberg can offer more than enough adventure and nature experiences. And a wonderful way to experience this is in a sea kayak.
Sea kayaking has become an increasingly popular leisure activity in Sweden and abroad. The conditions for practicing this sport are exceptionally good in our country. Many prefer to paddle in archipelagos, but it is becoming ever more popular to paddle in open sea with a free horizon on one side and our fantastic coastline on the other. An adventure that provides both nature experiences and excitement. In ocean waves and swells of varying size, one can practice both balance and paddling technique.
Cape Skåne
All of Skåne can be likened to one great Cape, Sweden's southernmost part that must be rounded on a long-distance coastal journey. But Skåne itself offers several capes, for example Bjärehalvön, Kullaberg, Falsterbonäset, Smygehuk, Kåseberga, Sandhammaren, and Stenshuvud. The Skåne capes are numerous, more than anywhere else in our country over such a short stretch. In calm weather, most paddlers can round them, but in rougher weather the passages are serious challenges. We believe we know. We have tried.
Bjärehalvön
The north coast of Bjärehalvön can be experienced after launching at, for example, Kattvik or Torekov. In westerly or northerly/northwesterly winds, there are fine opportunities for surfing in toward the sandy and pebble beaches along the two-mile-long nature reserve on the peninsula. Avoid the rocky sections and shallows that sometimes extend far out into the water closer to Torekov. The coast is particularly dramatic at Hova Hallar, with high cliffs plunging steeply into the sea.
Kullaberg
We name Kullaberg our most exciting Cape. The beaches are difficult to approach. The few bays and low shores available along the otherwise rocky coast seldom allow completely risk-free shore stops. Rebounding waves are another factor to consider. Keep a good distance from the steep cliffs even in relatively calm weather. We dare promise a powerful nature experience. You might think you have been transported to much more southerly latitudes, with intense greenery and an extraordinarily dramatic coastline. Kullaberg is geologically a so-called bedrock horst, where the highest point rises 187 meters above sea level. The water is clear, the vegetation lush, and the birdlife fascinating. As the crowning glory, at the very tip of the headland stands Kullen lighthouse, the Nordic region's highest situated lighthouse at over 88 meters above sea level. Launching can be done at Arild or Mölle.
Falsterbonäset
Falsterbonäset with Skanör/Falsterbo is Sweden's southwesternmost headland. The entire point is flat with long sandy beaches and often shallow water. By sea, two headlands must be passed: Knösen to the north and Nabben to the south. Between them are shallow lagoons and wetlands that serve as important bird habitats. Launching can conveniently be done in Falsterbokanalen, to which you return after rounding the point in either direction; a pleasant round trip of approximately 25 kilometers.
Kåsehuvud
Already from Ystad Saltsjöbad, you can discern the Kåseberga ridge to the east. The passage around Kåsehuvud rivals Kullaberg in grandeur. But here it is not rock but a sand and gravel ridge with steep, grass-covered slopes falling toward the shore and open sea. Atop the ridge sits the ship setting Ales Stenar. Our own passage took place in southwesterly winds of just under 10 meters per second. As with Kullaberg, it is important to stay well away from the shore to avoid breaking waves. Rebounding waves are less of a problem here, however. Our kayaks took on quite a bit of water before we reached the small harbor at Kåseberga. Before the harbor entrance, there is a good beach for landing or launching. A suitable destination or starting point in the other direction is Nybrostrand camping.
Paddling technique in high waves and fishing nets
Other notable Skåne capes include Smygehuk, Sandhammaren, and Stenshuvud. These headlands have more the character of bulges along a long, even coastline. However, they all lie along completely exposed coast. Some fishermen in Abbekås harbor taught us that the farther east and northeast you travel along the Skåne coast at a given wind strength, the higher the waves become. Our own paddling along the stretch seemed to confirm this. Most often the waves come in from the side. We tried to stay outside the breaking waves, since a wave that breaks over the kayak from the side easily catches the protruding bow and stern and can capsize the whole setup. Regular non-breaking swells are easier to handle. The critical moment is when passing the wave crest, when there is no support in any direction for the paddle. With good speed, the passage is easier. When you then sink down into the wave trough, you can advantageously place the paddle in the passing wave and "follow along" with the paddle as support until the entire wave has passed. Keep a lookout far ahead for places where the waves seem to break frequently, and steer clear of these in time. It is usually a bit shallower there. Sharp turns are risky in the waves. In the worst case, there may be rocks near the surface. Also be alert for fishing nets, which often extend from the shore several hundred meters out into the water. They are common along the south coast. Getting the rudder caught in a net in high waves easily leads to capsizing. And the net's owner would surely have a thing or two to say. Raise the rudder or go around. In calm weather, you can often pass close to shore.
Sweden's southernmost headland
Smygehuk, Sweden's southernmost headland, is a flat sandy point with rocky shores. Here you will find a harbor with restaurants and a nice hostel. The old lighthouse on land is decommissioned and now a tourist attraction. Captain Brink's Cabin, a small museum next to the hostel, is worth a visit. When we visited, the captain himself showed us around and told his stories.
Sandhammaren and Stenshuvud
Sandhammaren is Skåne's southeastern Cape. The lighthouse, located a bit inland, is however in full use. It is a so-called Heidenstam lighthouse, designed and constructed by the father of Verner von Heidenstam. As the name suggests, this is also a sandy headland, if possible even flatter than at Smygehuk. Both of these headlands can be paddled close to in calm weather, but one should stay outside the breaking waves in rougher conditions. Stenshuvud is instead a bedrock horst and the southernmost spur of the Linderödsåsen ridge. Its highest point is 97 meters above sea level. The area has been a national park since 1986 with great biological diversity.
Suitable launch sites are: for Smygehuk, Gislövs läge or Smygehamn; for Sandhammaren, Kåseberga or Skillinge; and for Stenshuvud, the harbors at Kivik or Vik. But there are several alternatives.
The Skåne coast is a paradise for sea kayakers who desire an exciting change from archipelago paddling. The paddling can easily be combined with accessible nature and cultural experiences. Skåne hospitality manifests itself in the form of numerous cozy little restaurants, often featuring the sea's delicacies on the menu, in practically every small harbor. Everything is close by in Skåne.